Honda Jazz and Fit I with mileage: a CVT that could, and candles that torment change
How can it be difficult to replace candles if you do not have a V6, a V8 or an opposer? Learn from Honda to design engine compartments and complicate the ignition system … Problems in Jazz come from where you don’t expect. And where do you expect (for example, from the variator), everything is relatively good there. We continue the story of the reliability of the first generation – the previous part with a description of the problems of the body, interior and electrics is here.
Brakes, suspension and steering
Front disc brakes have served all their 10 years before the planned bulkhead calipers. Resource discs and pads are usually 50+, even with a CVT. Here are the rear drum brakes sometimes fail. Not because the design is bad, they just forget about their maintenance, and the wear and corrosion of the fasteners of the pads over time lead to a “chatter” of pads and their displacement from their places. Often everything ends with the replacement of the drum and the entire filling – the flown block usually grinds everything into dust, including the brake cylinder.
ABS failures are mainly associated with wiring to the sensors, it is not very reliably implemented – we talked about this in more detail in the first part.
Rear brake pads
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The suspension is simple and very reliable. So much so that for runs of 200 thousand, many owners are surprised to find original parts. But this is very calm and thrifty. More often than 150 thousand fail not only the strut struts of the front suspension, but the silent blocks with struts of the rear shock absorbers. The pillar supports are generally gentle, they don’t like bad roads. And wheel bearings for such a run usually already require replacement. But everything is relatively inexpensive, and the choice is not original impressive. It is a pity that non-original parts often have a resource within 60 thousand kilometers, and the options from the giants of bearing construction are almost like original parts.
The steering with the EUR is not happy with the gear ratio: it’s about the same as the Volga – five turns from lock to lock. And also the EUR is not very driver’s, with a rude torque sensor, moreover, its control unit and motor are relatively often failed. However, here the gear ratio helps out, many do not suspect that they had an amplifier.
The rail itself is quite reliable: with careful handling, it taps lightly, but does not play much when running 300+. Well, if it breaks, then the repair is inexpensive. You also need to monitor the play of the steering column shaft and its fastening: it tears off the bolts, and the cardan joints play.
Almost all Russian Honda Jazz and Fit are equipped with variators, and almost all cars are front-wheel drive. All-wheel drive is not enough, although you can find a 4×4 car.
The mechanical drivetrain on the Jazz / Fit is virtually hassle-free, unless the gearbox is loose. Five-speed manual gearboxes sometimes require changing the oil and monitoring its level – over the years, the boxes begin to sweat, although they do not experience a rapid loss of oil. The clutch is relatively inexpensive, 8 thousand rubles for a set of Luk and about 18 thousand for the original (prices at the end of 2019). The release bearing is strong and reliable, usually when replacing the clutch kit they do not touch it.
Drives, that on the mechanics, that on machines with automatic transmission, tubular light and very small diameter. Corrosion undermines the tube over time, and it breaks off. Do not forget to make anticorrosive and remove paper stickers from the drives, usually they serve as catalysts for breakdowns.
To find a car with a five-speed automatic is unlikely to succeed, since American Jazz was almost not brought to us. Boxes are very reliable and unpretentious – I wrote about them in detail in a separate large article on Honda shaft machines. There are no junior four-speed automatic machines on the Jazz / Fit.
In principle, the CVT of the SLYA / SZCA series, which relies on younger engines, is also a very reliable thing. Not least – due to the simplicity of design and conservatism. The pushing belt here is made by Bosch – like on a pile of Jatco / Toyota / GM designs. If the Honda original is expensive, then you can take the right one from any other CVT. There is no torque converter, but there is a main friction clutch.
The main problem is the wear of the belt and cones. The bearings here are extremely good, the valve body is very simple, if not “primitive”. The box requires strictly “its” oil, doesn’t drive a stranger for a long time, the main clutch works poorly with it – sharply and tough. But if you pour HMMF-compatible oil and drive carefully, then the clutch life is 200+, and the belt is somewhere around 250-300 thousand.
Oddly enough, one of the important problems of Jazz is … the low price of a contract variator. Prices start at 15 thousand rubles, for 17-20 offers already a lot. And since any repair is guaranteed to be more expensive, you can easily buy a car with a box, which you decided to “get there”. Moreover, one can not immediately understand that the previous owner did not bother with servicing and even changing the oil, but simply decided to buy a “contract” as soon as the car got up. This is really the cheapest way, because a friction clutch kit costs from 12 thousand rubles, a belt – 20 thousand.
Oil is also not cheap, about 900 rubles per liter (and it needs 4.5 liters), add another thousand to the filter, and the work itself – 15 thousand.
If the logic “drive to victory” impresses you, then remember: a car can get up at the most inopportune moment, and cheap CVTs will someday run out, and even now it’s not always possible to buy an aggregate with a good residual life, often come frankly worn out.
Therefore, it is better to change the oil and starter pack on time and still monitor the condition of the belt. If there is a suspicion of wear, it is better to replace it, since there are used belts with an even better lateral surface, and a well-repaired unit is better than a lottery with a used box. Well, if the start from a place is accompanied by a dry creak and twitching, intensifying when you pick up speed, then the repair does not really make sense.
Part of the problems with jerking is a result of wear on the left support of the box. She has a very small resource, on average – up to 50 thousand kilometers. Its wear and tear is associated with jerking when loading the box and when braking the engine, as well as an increased level of vibration.
I note that the box really does not like cold winters, why – read in the material about warming the automatic transmission, in the southern countries of Europe these boxes are really “eternal”.
The engines Jazz / Fit put 1.2 and 1.3, aka 1.4 in Europe. The discrepancies are easily explained: the first has a working volume of 1243 “cubes”, and the second – 1339. They tried to “breed” them a little. At the “top of the gamut” is the 1.5 L15A motor. All three are of the same L series, gasoline, atmospheric. No diesel engines are provided even for the European consumer.
In addition to the specific problems for motors, it is worth noting a very tight layout of the engine compartment (even a small engine is cramped here), a cooling system with a weak radiator, hoses gradually spreading to ten years old and corroding thin metal tubes of the cooling system.
A weak starter and battery are another common problem, in the warm season there are enough of them, but in winter, jazz producers more often than other car owners look for where to light a cigarette, where to buy a new battery, or put another battery in the trunk. The motor starts very poorly at temperatures below -20 degrees, slowly spins up, especially if oils with a winter viscosity of 5w are used, and not “null”. Yes, and it heats up badly, and modern calcium batteries in the cold state do not take charge well.
The design of the L-series engines is not so conservative. An aluminum block with cast-iron sleeves, a timing chain drive, an 8-valve cylinder head for the L12A / L13A and a 16-valve with one camshaft (SOHC) for the L15A. The throttle can be electronic: on European versions of engines – always, but on Japanese – only after restyling. They also have VTEC, and even i-VTEC.
The iron is very reliable, the piston group and timing quietly withstand 300+ thousand mileage, the resource is limited mainly by oil appetite and owner mistakes due to the aging of the control system and the cooling system.
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The main problems are associated with the ignition modules and spark plugs of the i-DISI ignition system on 8-valve versions. Candles on them are difficult to change, especially the back row. To access it, you need to remove the entire inlet. The upper candles are easier to replace, a good enough head extension. And with a rare replacement of candles and in the absence of prophylaxis of the tips, the system fails: the motor works intermittently, greatly lacks traction and gradually kills the catalyst. The ignition modules themselves fail, and you should not install a non-original, unless NGK, which works with a guarantee.
EGR valve is another headache for motors. Its gaskets flow, it wedges itself and requires cleaning. Yes, and just turn it off does not work. A dirty intake manifold is largely his merit. EGR error (code P0409) also occurs when the harness in the valve is damaged.
The suction through the throttle body is inherent in L12A / L13A motors with a mechanical throttle, the electronic throttle is of European versions and on the 1.5 motor it is devoid of this drawback. Suction through the axis of the throttle assembly is a characteristic problem, it manifests itself in the form of floating idle speed, and on machines with a variator – also in the form of jerks at startup.
Damage to the wiring on the crankshaft position sensor (DPKV) – a nuisance is standard, but rare. It is mainly associated with oil leaks on the front cover of the engine, it gets on the wiring, and the insulation falls apart over time.
Well, the valves need to be adjusted often, at least once every 50 thousand kilometers. Unlike the “big” Honda engines, the gaps of 1.2-1.5 vary greatly. But they are regulated as in Lada – a bolt and a lock nut.
Another typical misfortune is a strong oil leak through the camshaft plug. However, this is only the most likely place on a running motor: given the average 200+ runs, it can flow from anywhere. All gaskets, the front cover and the valve cover are sweating, and the glands for such a run are usually also asked for a replacement. A good owner re-seals the joints, a bad one refills the oil.